There are many factors effecting nozzle size such as engine size power adder, Intercooled or non intercooled and level of boost you are running. What works for 1 car is not always best for another. Please use the nozzle calculator this should get you close.

Our base kit is an off/on type setup,(pressure switch hooks up to any boost/vac. line). Our progressive kit hooks up to your map sensor or the voltage controller hooks up to any 0-5 volt sensor like maff, tps, map, egt ect.  Our progressive kit allows you to turn on kit at a lower boost pressure, and start the kit at  15% duty cycle and have it ramp up to the max setting of the controller.

The Progressive Controller from DevilsOwn is by far the latest technology this company has made so far. The controller just so happens to be lightweight and easy to install. It is designed to give your vehicle an increased pressure with a users' adjustable range. The controller injects water/methanol according to any 0-5 Volt sensor signal.  Although Maff, Egt, Tps, and some O2 sensors can be used if they are 0-5 Volt, we recommend our choice of use to be a MAP sensor.  If your engine happens to already have a boost rated MAP sensor, then we would advise you to select the proper controller by matching its bar rating to the bar rating of your map sensor. Of course installation is as simple as taping into the signal output wire of the MAP sensor. But if you have a factory non-boosted engine map sensor, which doesn't read boost, it is incompatible.

Controller General Operation:

• Unit will read dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control.
• Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
• Pump duty cycle is calculated based on dial settings and slope
• When boost PSI reaches the START setting, the pump will come on with a 15% duty cycle
• It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
• The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost. This means the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve.

For ease of adjustment, each dial has 21 settings that are incremental. There is a setting for every hash mark and another setting in-between each having the arrow close to a setting that will provide the exact setting.

For example, the 12 o'clock position on the START dial of a 2 BAR unit is a PSI setting of 7. It will also be a 7 if the arrow is 6 degrees to right (or left) of 12 o'clock
once it is beyond half way to the middle of the setting which will be 7.5PSI. This allows the user to easily set the unit to exact values without having to be fussy with the dial

for reference; the Dial settings for each version are as follows:
If the FULL setting is set to a lower PSI than the START setting, the start setting will be ignored. The pump will then switch on to 100% when PSI is above FULL setting. It will then switch off when it is below the FULL setting.

In order to prevent loading down the MAP sensor signal, the voltage input to the controller is left floating. This means that tapping into the stock MAP sensor that is connected to your cars computer will not affect the MAP voltage. However, if the MAP input wire (green) is left disconnected, sampled voltage will be erratic and therefore pump output voltage will be erratic.

LEDs:

RED - power led - It will be illuminated anytime there is power applied to the pink wire and the black wire is grounded.

GREEN - This led will light up proportional to pump output voltage, it will turn on dim and brighten as the pump reaches 100%

YELLOW - This is the Status led
On power up the unit will blink the yellow led indicating what BAR setting the unit is setup for.
2 blinks is 2 BAR
2 blinks & 1 fast blink 2.5 bar
3 blinks is 3 BAR or voltage
During operation
It will come on solid in normal operation when the output voltage to pump is at 100%.
It will stay on until output drops below 95%
This prevents the light from fluttering if the boost is hovering around FULL.
It will blink a steady rate when the unit is faulted to let you know if something is wrong.

Fault:
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw
- fault in the pump circuit
- controller overheat
- pump wired incorrectly

In fault mode, the controller will shut off the output to the pump and will flash the yellow (FULL/Diagnostic) led. The controller must be powered down and the fault condition must no longer exist before the controller will resume normal operation.

Open circuit conditions are not monitored by this controller due to many alcohol/water injection pumps, which have a pressure switch to modulate max pressure. During a normal operation the switch will open and close. When the switch is open, no current will flow to the pump. Therefore, it can be normal for a zero current condition when the controller is telling the pump to run.



Controller specs:
Input voltage 10-15v
Input current
Standby 60ma
100% duty cycle 10A
Sensor input range 0-5v
PWM output 30hz
Duty Cycle 15%-100%

Not if installed and used properly. As long as the injection system is working properly, it can only do good things. Since the alcohol will dissolve carbon buildup, It will help keep your plugs, valves, and combustion chambers very clean.

Alcohol/water injection will not increase the power usually. However, in areas where the ambient temperature is very high, injecting alcohol/water mixture will lower the inlet charge temperature and this will help produce a power increase.

One thing to remember the purpose of the nozzle is to provide a fine mist into intake. Therefor the nozzle tip goes into the intake and the filtered end goes into the nozzle holder to filter the mixture before it hits the nozzle tip.

The diesel kits come with extra quick fittings to run dual nozzles.